What is Eco Fashion?

Today I sat contemplating the meaning of the term 'eco fashion'. I thought to myself, "If anyone should really understand the meaning of the above it should be me, as I have dedicated the best part of three years toward the creation of an eco fashion brand." The problem is there is no point in me understanding the meaning if others can't conceptualise the term, and how it may fit into their lifestyle. So here we are, and I am going to attempt to detail the meaning of 'eco fashion'.

'Eco fashion' could quite literally be seen as two entirely different entities. Firstly the idea of ecological and environmentally sustainable ideas being somewhat of a trend, fad, or as it states fashion, something that may be washed away or brushed under the carpet in years to come. Secondly it can be viewed as fashion, as in clothing, accessories, perfumes, aftershaves and footwear, which is made with the environment in mind.

For the purpose of 'eco fashion' as apparel and its derivatives, the point to focus on is the statement that 'eco fashion' is fashion made with the environment in mind. What does this really mean? From my point of view it can mean one of four things;

- Fashion produced and created through the use of organic materials
- Fashion produced and created through the use of recycling of otherwise excess fabrics
- Fashion produced and created through the use of recycled materials not initially directly related to fashion
- Fashion produced and created that gives back directly to the planet.

These are my four categories and I think you will agree they capture the essence of 'eco fashion' fabulously. Under the above headings many designers, brands and labels have designed products that can appeal to the wider public, however currently the proportion of the population that really embraces products made under the 'eco fashion' title remains niche. This is by no means a problem because 'eco fashion' is young and has over 100 years or more of modern styling to compete with.

The more pressing question is to ask, "What will happen over the coming years?" Some might say it has already begun; is 'eco fashion' blending and merging with regular fashion? Has it become apparent that the 'eco fashion' route is not so much more expensive, and creates large benefits in comparison to regular production methods? Currently as a result of smaller scale designers, brands and labels, the law of economy of scale dictate, that anything done on a small scale will ultimately be expensive, but if 'eco fashion' moves mainstream and all processes are inherently eco friendly there will be no definition just a shift in foundation principles.

Some might question why I am writing this as I am one of the small producers of 'eco fashion' that will suffer as a result. Some might say customers, who would have sought out Excentree for its niche appeal, will no longer need Excentree. Well that is where you are wrong, yes we would no longer be niche, but it won't be the customers who need us directly it will be the mainstream department stores, clothing stores and such like who will lend from our experience and expertise.

The proponents of 'eco fashion' have prepared for this period of change and it will be us at the forefront of the eco evolution. I for one will continue to champion the cause of mainstream 'eco fashion' because it can only benefit our people and our planet and unless I am mistaken the point of 'eco fashion' is to benefit both the customer and the planet, not to remain niche. Recently I have been dismayed when reading and listening to so called eco-gurus, eco-reporters, eco-commentators and eco-critics use the term "eco has gone too mainstream", what is that all about? Working together should only be seen as positive. I don't care if it is a multi billion dollar corporation that decides to have eco policies or the small start up, every little count. I sympathise with those who say "how can an oil company be eco-friendly?" The point is not their core business, but the fact that they acknowledge their responsibility and decide to take positive action. No one can expect companies to stop operating because their industry is seen as ecologically damaging, that is complete nonsense.

Sometimes I fear that 'eco fashion' is just that, an idea for people to jump on the bandwagon and when they get bored, and too many people have the same idea as them it won't be fashionable anymore. Eco fashion can be a cause for good for the future, we should move forward together, not fighting, or criticising the efforts of others just because we don't like people crowding our fashion. We need to farsighted in our quest for success, as our chosen niche grows as it should we must not lose sight of our values. In conclusion I would urge all those who believe in, or are concerned for the preservation of our planet to work with those who are new to an eco way of thinking, or being. Don't forget the panoramic picture; the landscape of our existence is the real fashion we need to protect.

Lakme India Fashion Week - A Review

Introduction

India is becoming the latest fashion hub for the fashionistas. Indian designers are no longer confined to the domestic fashion and apparel market, they are gaining recognition and fame from all over the world. The various government policies and a boom in fashion industry have made it possible. One of the major breakthrough provided to Indian designers to showcase their talents are through the medium of fashion shows. Lakme India Fashion Show is the most popular fashion show celebration of India where the talents of already established and upcoming designers are showcased.

This event is a fashion celebration laced with lots of glamour and national as well as international media coverage. This time lakme India fashion week was held at Mumbai from 31st Oct- 4th Nov. Many high profile designers as well as audience witnessed this fashion fiesta. Famous bollywood celebrities were part of it.

Eminent designers like Surily Goel, Narendra Kumar, Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Nalandda Bhandari, Nandita Mahtani, Anand Kabra, Abhishek Dutta , Wendrell Rodericks, Anupama Dayal, Vikram Phadnis, Chaitanya Rao, Sanchita, Savio Jon, Payal Singhal, Sanjay Malhotra, James Ferriera, Priyadarshini Rao, etc presented their spring/summer 2007 collection. Also South African designer duo Sun Goddess and Clive Rundle presented their collection.

Brief descriptions of some designer's creative work are as follows :-

Nalandda Bhandari

Nalandda Bhandari designs simple yet attractive and wearable collection under the brand name 'Nasha'. She named her spring/summer 2007 collection 'Free Spirit'. She covered all patterns and styles of contemporary women clothing, dress patterns like- tunics, kaftans, tube dress, skirts, shirts and burnt gold evening gown dominated her show. She played with glamour clad fabrics like chiffon, silk, georgette, voile, cotton and crepe. Her collection was largely ruled by animal prints and embroideries like African embroidery, sequin embroidery, etc. She also presented her men collection. She included her logo of rose embroidery in almost every outfit.

Narendra Kumar

The very famous designer Narendra Kumar presented his spring/summer collection 2007 at Lakme Fashion Week. The collection was named as 'Love Touches You'. He presented a perfect blend of traditional and contemporary designing paired beautifully with each other. The women's line of western collection had smocked & pleated skirts, balloon skirt with shirt dress, half collars, bloomers, chiffon with appliqué sleeves, etc which were created with the designer's unique touch and detailing. The preferred fabrics by the designer were cotton, georgette, net, silk, mull and linen. The collection was unique but wearable in terms of design and pattern.

The men collection was very stylish and appealing in nature. Men models walked the ramp with elaborate embroidered batik styled shirts paired with stylish trousers completed with patch pockets and shiny zippers. Fun element of, feminity to male garments was provided by showcasing sophisticated floral printed baggy tops paired with tight fitting pants and capris. The choice of colors was dull jade, beige, blue, brown, saffron and white. Complicated embroidery, smocking, appliqué work and shadow work were part and parcel of his creative designing. The fun element was when the famous model turned actor John Abraham walked the ramp with white linen suit. Thus he complied every bit of creativity and entertainment aspects to his collection which gained him standing ovation by the audience and showering of red carnations.

Surily Goel

Surily Goel is young and talented designer who even designs for film personalities. Her latest creation on big screen was for actress Preity Zinta for the film 'Jaan-e-Mann'. Her collection presented the carefree and sensual side of women's clothing. This year's collection was marked by knee-length skirts of georgette, crochets, chiffon, light silks and organdy, highlighting pleats and waist gathering with satin belts. Also single piece bubble outfits created in wide range of colors and fabrics. In this time's collection she used more of small colored stones.

The presence of film personalities like Dino Morea, Sonali Bendre, Neelam Kothari, Fardeen Khan, Sameera Reddy and Tara Sharma in the audience during her collection put the star element into the show.

Chaitanya Rao

Chaitanya Rao's collection was like early morning breeze with booming petals of budding roses. The delicate fabrics like georgette and chiffon provided that sexy feminine look to her collection. As her signature, she included moth in the form of embroidery or appliqué in all of her garments. The models took over the ramp with her mesmerizing feminine collection comprising of hem blouses with theme embroideries, pleated mini skirts with batik prints, moth appliqué blouses, long frayed double hem dresses, pale grey chiffon tunic, cream color chiffon bubble dress, dolman sleeved hipster blouses, the list goes on. To accessorize her collection she used thin and broad belts.

Sanchita

Sanchita's collection presented in Lakme Fashion Week was bold yet wearable. She divided her collection into three segments- Punk chic, Copacabana and Swinging deco. The stunning designer pieces of bikinis and pareos, Hawaiian inspired kaftans, small balloon skirts, floaty dresses and minis provided the feeling of the beaches of Copacabana, St. Tropez and Riviera to the audience. Her collection was quite glamorous consisting of outfit like grey T-shirts with silver leggings, lycra T-shirts having sleeve ornamentations, strapless dresses accompanied with necklaces, earrings and brooches.

The men collection was marked by casual wear T-shirts, poplin trousers with detailed embroideries and white tuxedo jackets.

The garments were decorated with semi precious stones or with attractive patch works. Her line of collection was dominated by colors like white, apatite, agate, jade, opal and black onyx. The garments were accessorized with intrinsically crafted jewelry and bags.

Savio Jon

This designer emphasized heavily on the comfort factor of the garments. Savio Jon is well known for his simple yet attractive clothing lines which are high on value and seductive quotient. Unlike other designers he preferred his garments to hang loose around the body instead of body hugging/tight fitting clothes. He used free flowing fabrics like fish net, mul, chiffon, georgette and crepe.

Pinafore silhouette, long lean maxis, oversized blouses, deep shoveled armholes, low back and front necklines, were some types of garments he presented. In evening wear he glamorized the tubular silhouettes with shimmers. The ranges of colors choosed by him for his collection were beige, grey, brown, black, pale yellow and white. Thus the colors were also sober and subtle.

Payal Singhal

Payal Singhal for the first time presented her collection in Lakme Fashion Week. Her designer collection for women were designed keeping in mind today's working women's needs and comfort level. Stylish yet affordable was the key element associated with her collection. She beautifully used cutwork, satin, georgette, jacquard, tulle, cotton, crepe, taffeta, brocade and seersucker in club and partywear for dresses and tunics. Her display of outfits on ramp descended gracefully from daywear to glamorous evening wear. She started her showcasing of designs in oyster white color then, tea rose, yellow, coffee, watermelon to grapefruit color. Display of tunics and blousons were coupled with melon, gold or silver tights. The signature outfit was the oyster white kaftan embellished with golden embroidery.

Sanjay Malhotra

Sanjay Malhotra named his spring/summer 2007 collection -'Dejavu'. The key phrase which inspired him for this collection was -Life through my rose colored glasses. He instead of sticking only to free flowing usual feminine fabrics, even experimented with fabrics like fur, leather, voiles, denim, suede and laces which were highly appealing to today's power packed independent women. The beautiful mix-n-match of these fabrics in sober as well as striking colors presented a collection that was bold enough yet stylish and wearable. Few of the many outfits displayed by him were- ivory colored mirror jacket with chiffon sleeves, colorful corset skirt accompanied with net petticoat, tunic with fur edge, etc. His collection was for the woman who likes to seek attention of the crowd and be different.

Clive Rundle and Sun Goddess

Clive Rundle and Sun Goddess were two international South African designers who presented their collection at Lakme Fashion Week. Fusion was the key style of their outfits. Extravagant layered dresses and skirts, jackets, evening wear, loosely fitted shirts and trousers, long coats and tops were part of their garment showcase. Their choices of colors were mainly creams, cherries, plums, peaches, sapphires, maroons and mauves. The free flowing pleated and layered outfits depicted the south African culture and fashion essence through them.

James Ferriera

James Ferriera made his debut at Lakme Fashion Week. He named his collection 'Bombay Tokyo'. His collections were inspired by Maharashtra's rich textile heritage.

The collections were divided into seven segments which were even named. The sari, an ode to devnagari, the hardy traditional towel, black magic, the sholapur story, warli and diwali were the seven names given to the segments.

Traditional warli paintings and paithani motifs were done on the clothes. Very uniquely he transformed the traditional forms of maharashtrian clothing into contemporary designs, like nine yard saris were intelligently converted into tunics. Marigold and leaf motifs were used on black shirts with cowl necks.

To describe in a nutshell his collection used ethnic fabrics and designs on garments with style and attitude. The outfit presented during finale had black georgette garments with glittering Paithani embroidery designs on them.

Conclusion

This event is marked by presence of celebrities and traders all across the globe. Also it provides a platform for the budding designers to show their talent and establish themselves into the high profile fashion industry, for the already established designers to show their collection and maintain their popularity level. The above mentioned review is for few of the many prominent and talented designers. The nutshell description of the designers suggests that this celebration of fashion and style is a sure shot success for India's designers and promote the export business too. The very presence of film stars on the ramp of their favorite designers and in the audience is the crowd puller factor of this celebration. Lakme Fashion week is extensively covered by media and promoted also.

Indian Fashion Industry

Colourful fashion trends of India

With the end of the 20th century came the end of all hype which has created a more practical and pragmatic environment and has given a more stable picture of the fashion business.
In the 50s, 60s and 70s, the Indian fashion scenario wasn't exactly colorless. It was exciting, stylish and very graceful. There were no designers, models, star or fashion design labels that the country could show off. The value of a garment was judged by its style and fabric and not by who made it.

It was regarded as ever so chic and fashionable to approach any unfamiliar tailor, who could make a garment for a few rupees, providing the perfect fit, finish and style. The high society lady, who wore it, was proud for getting a good bargain and for giving her name to the end result.

In 60s, tight 'kurtas', 'churidars' and high coiffures were a trend among ladies. It was an era full of naughtiness and celebration in arts and music and cinema, manifested by liberation from restriction and acceptance of new types of materials such as plastic film and coated polyester fabric.

The 70s witnessed an increase in the export of traditional materials outside the country as well as within. Hence, international fashion arrived in India much before the MTV culture with the bold colors, flower prints and bell-bottoms. Synthetics turned trendy and the disco culture affected the fashion scenario.

It was in the early 80s when the first fashion store 'Ravissant' opened in Mumbai. At that time garments were retailed for a four-figure price tag. The '80s was the era of self consciousness and American designers like Calvin Klein became popular. In India too, silhouettes became more masculine and the 'salwar kameez' was designed with shoulder pads.

With the evolution of designer stores in Mumbai, the elegant fashion design culture was a trend among Indians along with their heavy price tags. No doubt that a garment with a heavy price tag was at the bottom stage of fashion. But clients immediately transformed into the high fashion fold where they were convinced that that the word 'elegant fashion design culture' means, it had to have a higher price tag.

Garments were sold at unbelievable prices only because the designers had decided to get themselves noticed by making showy outfits and getting associated with the right shows, celebrities and events.

Later, fashion shows shifted to competitive events each attempting to out-do the other in theme, guest list and media coverage. For any newcomer, the fashion business was the number one professional art that time.

In the 90's, the last decade of the millennium, a move towards the drastic pairing down returned with ethnic wears (Today, ethnic wear market in India is accounted to Rs. 9000 crore). This led to the decline and the recession, the push to sell at any cost and keep staying in the limelight. With heavy cut throat competition and sound awareness of the client, the inevitable occurred. The price tags, which had once reached at a peak, began their downside journey.

At those times the downturn was not only being experienced in the price tags of the garments, but also in the business of fashion shows. More models, choreographers, make-up men, hairstylists and designers streamed down into their business.

The fun and party time in the Indian fashion scenario had not ended with this, but continued. It was a point, where it reached at a certain steady level and from there, in the beginning of the 21st centaury, with new designers and models and some sensible designing; the fashion hype accelerated its speed.

Indian fashion industry spreads its wings globally

For the global fashion industry, India is a very big exporter of fabrics and accessories. All over the world, Indian ethnic designs and materials are considered as a significant facet for the fashion houses and garment manufacturers. In fabrics, while sourcing for fashion wear, India also plays a vital role as one of the biggest players in the international fashion arena.
India's strengths not only depend on its tradition, but also on its raw materials. World over, India is the third largest producer of cotton, the second largest producer of silk and the fifth largest producer of man-made fibres.

In the international market, the Indian garment and fabric industries have many fundamental aspects that are compliant, in terms of cost effectiveness to produce, raw material, quick adjustment for selling, and a wide ranges of preference in the designs in the garments like with sequin, beadwork, aari or chikkon embroidery etc, as well as cheaper skilled work force. India provides these fashion garments to the international fashion houses at competitive prices with shorter lead time and an effective monopoly in designs which covers elaborated hand embroidery - accepted world over.

India has always been considered as a default source in the embroidered garment segment, but the changes of rupee against dollar has further decreased the prices, thereby attracting buyers. So the international fashion houses walk away with customized stuff, and in the end crafted works are sold at very cheap rates.

As far as the market of fabrics is concerned, the ranges available in India can attract as well as confuse the buyer. A basic judgmental expectation in the choosing of fabrics is the present trend in the international market. Much of the production tasks take place in parts of the small town of Chapa in the Eastern state of Bihar, a name one would have never even heard of. Here fabric making is a family industry, the ranges and quality of raw silks churned out here belie the crude production methods and equipment used- tussars, matka silks, phaswas, you name it and they can design it. Surat in Gujarat, is the supplier of an amazing set of jacquards, moss crepes and georgette sheers - all fabrics utilized to make dazzling silhouettes demanded world over. Another Indian fabric design that has been specially designed for the fashion history is the "Madras check" originally utilized for the universal "Lungi" a simple lower body wrap worn in Southern India, this product has now traversed its way on to bandannas, blouses, home furnishings and almost any thing one can think of.

Recently many designers have started using traditional Indian fabrics, designs and cuts to enhance their fashion collections. Ethnic Indian designs with batik cravat, tie-and-dye or vegetable block print is 'in' not just in India but all across the world.

In India, folk embroidery is always associated with women. It is a way of their self expression, and they make designs that depict their native culture, their religion and their desires. Women embroider clothes for their personal use, and the people linked with the pastoral profession prepare embroidered animal decorations, decorative covers for horns and foreheads and the Rabaris of Kutch in Gujarat do some of the finest embroidery. Embroidered pieces are made during the festivals and marriages, which are appliqué work called 'Dharaniya'. One of the significant styles of Saurashtra is 'Heer' embroidery, which has bold geometric designs, woven on silks. The Mutwa women of the Banni area of Kutch have a fascinating embroidery where they make fine embroidery works with designed motifs and mirrors in the size of pinheads, the Gracia jats use geometric designs on the yoke of long dresses. Moreover, the finest of quilts with appliqué work are also made in Kutch.

Garments embellishment with bead work is another area where it in demand in the international market. Beads are used to prepare garlands and other accessory items like belts and bags and these patterns now available for haute couture evening wear too.
According to a survey, in recent times Indian women have given up their traditional sari for western wears like t-shirts and shorts, as they feel more comfortable in skirts and trousers instead of saris and salwar kameez. It's been noted that women spend just $165 million on trousers and skirts against 1.74 billion dollars spent by men on trousers. With more women coming out to work, the (combined) branded trouser and skirts market has been increasing at a whopping 27 per cent in sales terms. Women feel that Western clothing is more suitable, particularly when working or using public transportation. Many corporate offices are also in favor of their employees wearing Western wear.

In India, Western inspiration is increasing due to the influence of TV and films. Besides, shopping malls selling branded clothes have also mushroomed in India and are fascinating the youngsters. Recently, designer wear is being promoted through store chains such as Shopper's Stop, Pantaloons, Westside, etc. Companies such as Raymond and TCNS have also set up their exclusive stores for designer wear such as Be: and W.
The market of India fashion industry

Recently, a report stated that the Indian fashion industry can increase from its net worth of Rs 200 crore to Rs 1,000 crore in the next five to ten years. Currently, the worldwide designer wear market is amounted at $35 billion, with a 9 per cent growth rate, with the Indian fashion industry creating hardly 0.1 per cent of the international industry's net worth.

According to approximations, the total apparel market in India is calculated to be about Rs 20,000 crore. The branded apparel market's size is nearly one fourth of this or Rs 5,000 crore. Designer wear, in turn, covers nearly about 0.2 per cent of the branded apparel market.

At present, the largest sales turnover within the designer wear segment is about Rs25 crore, with other well-known names having less turnovers of Rs10-15 crore. In view of the prospects of the Indian fashion industry for growth, the figures are not very hopeful.

The figure of fashion industry

o The organized market for designer apparel is about Rs 250 crore

o Designer wear calculates to less than 1 per cent of the apparel market

o The global market for designer wear is 5 per cent of total apparel market

o The global market for designer wear industry is largely dependent on the small-scale sector

o Consumers for designer wear have a yearly household income of Rs 10 lakh-plus. There are 3 lakh such households developing at 40-45 per cent

o Designer wear industry is projected to increase to Rs 1,000 crore by 2015.

o More than 81 per cent of the population below 45 years of the age is fashion conscious.

Many fashion designers and management experts foresee an average growth of about 10-12 per cent for the Indian fashion industry in the coming years. Though, the growth rate could be more than 15 per cent, if infrastructural and other logistical bottlenecks and drawbacks are over come.

India needs more effort to overcome

However, despite the benefits available in India there are also some disadvantages. India is not a remarkable player in the global market with reference to brands because of its inability to add value to products. This is observed by the fact that nearly 50 per cent of its exports are apparel and made-ups where value addition is essential. Likewise, 75 per cent of domestic apparel market is commoditized and unbranded and very few Indian brands do survive in the foreign markets. Evidently, the Indian market has not made a strong stand and hence it is difficult to make Indian brands that can compete with global brands in India.

Another reason for the fashion industry's inadequate growth is the limited experience of the designers and the platform they are offered. The insignificance stalks from the reality that most of the young talent is hired by the bigger names to work in their studios, thus imprinting their work with the label of the big designers.
Though performing individual presentation is not an alternative choice for most of the young talent, because of the limitation of finance, a beginner designer's name fails to come to the forefront.
Another thing, with regards to the ramp, is what the designers offer is barely appropriate to be worn ordinarily. You'll see there's dissimilarity between what is there on the ramp and what the Page Three crowd wears. Some believe at present the fashion is in, but the tendency hasn't changed much as it is the old ones coming back. We have had short kurtas, long kurtas, flowing skirts, etc. coming back into fashion with only a new variety of designs.

Many management consultants and professionals believe that the Indian fashion industry will be boosted if the new comers are paid proper attention. What they require is more support so that their work gets due recognition. According to the consultants and professionals there should be a panel of people who choose designers for showcasing according to their work and not their name or who they've worked for earlier, and hence selection would be purely based on quality. Besides this, the panel of judges should comprise of people from the fashion schools rather than designers.
It has been observed that the media-hype around the big designers and blatant commercialism has hindered business in the Indian fashion industry. No clear cut picture is provided about the feasibility of the products. Basically it is only the famous names that are being talked of. What they offer is not quite daily-wear. The entire focal point of the industry is on commercialism. The discussion is only regarding how much is sold and for what price and nothing about the designs or styles.

Efforts to develop global fashion brands

It needs innovative designers, a seamless supply chain, control over retail and distribution and concentration of quality while dealing with some image. While a few have accomplished something in the west covering Tommy Hilfiger, Gucci, Zara, Armani, Versace, Ralph Lauren, etc, India has not been capable to track on.
A serious reason for India not being successful has been its isolation in the fashion system. Each stakeholder including designers, exporters, textile players and retail chains need to come together along with the government to make sure that the position of Indian fashion is strong in the coming years.

There are various agencies and industry associations that can support in brand-building practice. Many of these agencies require attractive resources and making a global image of Indian fashion rather than independently trying to promote particular brands or textile segments.

Efforts to create strong global image

Large textiles players require more and more to target on the market facing activities while developing an association with small medium enterprise (SME) clusters. Such kind of networks would be a benefit to that which can focus on demand making and branding as well as for clusters that can focus on quality production.

Efforts to create value networks

After the entry of large retail chains like Wal-Mart, Gap etc in India, Small scale manufacturers in India will find it very difficult to satisfy the demands of these international buyers if they continue to promote their products individually. Therefore, it is very important that value networks are created between large textile and apparel companies in India and small scale manufacturers, so that the marketing muscle of the leading players can be utilized for receiving large orders while the bigger players then assign the orders to the small-medium enterprises according to their past record of quality and service. For this to be put into practice, it will be vital to well-organize the information on small-medium enterprise clusters in a perfect manner so that supplier selection decisions are made according to the information in the long run, only the more efficient small-medium enterprise players survive and develop.
Efforts to concentrate on designers and designs

Designers have a fundamental role to play in the future of Indian fashion scenario. There should hence be an effective process for preparing these designers. This can be done by sponsoring exchange programs with international schools, increasing participations in the fashion capitals of the world, motivating and offering business incubation to new designers and rewarding efforts through proper design awards.
Even in India, well-known designers are incapable to tap finances from well-organized resources, since a vital part of their assets are brands and design talent which are not measured in terms of money and hence it becomes difficult to judge the value. This has severely inhibited their development and capability to raise retail existence across the country and abroad. Likewise, there is no systematic approach of existence in the fashion capitals of the world like Paris, Milan and New York. Due to this, designers have to depend on their personal contacts and relationships for organizing fashion shows and making retail alliances. The French government as well as the British government helps designers of their particular countries appreciably in these areas as they understand that value creation through design is the only way to carry on in the competitive landscape of the global fashion industry. The Indian government and related agencies should also accept this aspect of textile, apparel and fashion industry sincerely if they need to see India on the global fashion map.
Work in collaboration: designers-corporate efforts

Designers and many organizations can work globally through various models and with many working relationships. The Indian fashion industry has many views but only one such model, wherein a designer creates a retail venture with his/her own brand through organized retail chains. There are many other models according to brand ownership and division of operational activities.

Globally, many models of collaboration between designers and corporates are available. For example Ralph Lauren has made an agreement with Jones Apparel for producing and retailing various Polo brands. Likewise, Armani had an agreement with Zegna for production, even while it was competing with them in the marketplace. There are many cases of designer brands being co-owned by the designers and corporates, Gucci-Alexander McQueen and Gucci-Stella McCartney being some of them.

In the end, many designer businesses have been obtained by corporates where designers play a major role in the design elements of the business, but the brand and the organization is owned completely by the corporate.

The current possession of Calvin Klein by Philips Van Heusen and earlier holdings of Hugo Boss and Valentino by Marzotto are some related examples in this segment. These examples strongly point out that not only designers find such relationships important for development, but also corporates find these attractive for rising their profitability and growth. Likewise deals in India could go a long way in developing the brand values of corporates and designers.

Developing clusters

Making common infrastructure for functioning such as design and sampling, affluent treatment, product testing, etc can help in increasing the capability of the clusters since noteworthy investments could be made by the cluster itself rather than any single player.

Well-managed databases can help in decreasing search costs and through data mining, rating of players can be done so as to make the procurement process easier for buyers. Cooperative marketing programs at different clusters can also support players to grow up in the value chain by mixing their strengths within the cluster.

Cluster based battle in the fashion industry is characterized by the Italian industry. The National Chamber for Italian Fashion for example, supports the development of the fashion clusters at Milan and Florence in a well organized manner. Indian industry can learn a lot from Italy because India has a similar cluster based scattered production base, but has been incapable to link it with design and branding capability.

If the above activities are successfully considered, India could have an extraordinary development in the fashion industry, which could increase from a negligible size to Rs 8,000 crore in the coming decade.

Conclusion

In the 50s, 60s and 70s, the Indian fashion scenario was colorful and stylish, in the end of 20th century it was quite subdued and with the beginning of the 21st century it has geared up and is still experiencing the growth with many spectrums of colours. Though this industry is growing at a very good pace, besides achieving a negligible share in the global market, still it needs to make severe efforts to stand amongst international fashion market in various aspects.

Fashion Show Events

A fashion show is an event put on by a fashion designer to showcase his or her upcoming line of clothing. The first American fashion show likely took place in 1903 in the New York City store Ehrlich Brothers. American retailers imported the concept of the fashion show in the early 1900s.

Fashion

Featuring runway garments from the spring and fall/winter collections of ten influential couturiers and designers, the exhibition explores the ideas and inspirations motivating Paris fashion today, and why, in an age of globalization and instantaneous communication, this venerable city remains the fashion capital. The city has been a magnet for stylish men and women since the seventeenth century, but the French fashion industry has evolved considerably over the centuries and never more than in the last few years.

Recent assessments of the current state of Paris fashion have varied widely, with some pundits announcing its death, and others claiming that it is closer to fine art than ever before. By using fashion, a medium which has always been associated with self-expression and personal identity, these designers seek to demonstrate how the use (or misuse) of technology and its modes of production have the power to stimulate, delight, and inspire in ways as yet untapped in the fashion world. In the 1800s, "fashion parades" periodically took place in Paris couture salons.

The first American fashion show likely took place in 1903 in the New York City store Ehrlich Brothers. By 1910, large department stores such as Wanamaker's in New York City and Philadelphia were also staging fashion shows. By the 1920s, retailers across the United States held fashion shows. In the 1970s and 1980s, American designers began to hold their own fashion shows in private spaces apart from such retailers.

Models

Models in a fashion show have to change their clothes all the time to present new items to the public. Models are supposed to influence us in a positive way. Models strutting catwalks at London Fashion Week should provide a certificate attesting their good health, but there should be no outright ban on wafer-thin women, the British Fashion Council said on Friday. Spain and Italy have recommended banning models with a body mass index (BMI) of less than 18. "We favor the alternative approach of promoting good health based on medical assessments of models participating in London Fashion Week," it said.

The report acknowledged there was a problem with eating disorders among models and recommended a health education and awareness programme should be set up urgently. "During the investigation, evidence of the vulnerability of women in the modeling progression was startling and models are at high risk of eating disorders," said Denise Kingsmill, chair of the inquiry.

In a typical fashion show, models walk the runway dressed in the clothing created by the designer. Because the topic of fashion shows remains to find its historian, the earliest history of fashion shows remains obscure. Too many adolescent girls decide early on that they need to be "thin" like the models in order to be "pretty" when really they just need to keep themselves healthy.

Asian and Korean Fashion Style

Fashion is an ever changing concept. Fashion lies icon style, fashion lies in presentation, fashion lies in the way you talk and also on the way you perceive things. style changes from country to country. The concept is differently practiced in different places depending on the climate and choice of the general population.

When talking about Asian style you have so much to say and so many things to present. Asian influence on fashion genre has increased with days. Several Asian countries have now entered fashion competitions to prove their likeness and respect towards impending fashion. Before they used to dot upon local markets and now they want to reach out to international fashion bazaars. They have crossed the lines and have always tried to come up with something new and extraordinary. This is what Asian style all about is. Lots of Asian designers are flooding the international fashion market with their innovations and fashionable endeavors. Most Indian designers are trying to mix and match traditionalism with contemporary fashion to make something really pleasing and appreciable.

Korean style is a more restricted one. They really find it hard to move out from their respective boundaries and present the world with something new and unique. Korean fabrics are excellent and they are enough to give other cloth materials a tough fight. Korean people have a legendary fashion history. They like to rule with conventional styles among contemporary fashion lovers. Korean fashion designers are hard workers. There is no scope of any kind of loop holes in the kind of design they are presenting the world. It is only that they are not so much interested in experimenting with their age old authentic fashion. They love the way they have always been. They dislike breaking rules and this is what Korean fashion is all about.

After the Koreans the Japanese to are not far behind. They have a host of their personal collections as well. Japanese fashion designers are both amazing and exceptional. Japanese fashion reflects both culture and soul. Its fashion reflects Japanese tradition and history. Japanese fashion is a perfect mixture of the past and the present. Starting from their traditional kimono ton contemporary western style outfits the Japanese fashion conscious population has always made a mark in fashion industry. Japanese fashion is not about flaunting.

They have silently presented the international market with world class designs. Japanese are extremely fashion conscious people because they believe in out and out enrichment with age, time and style. However, they hate unnecessary experimenting with uniqueness because they believe that what is traditional is always pure and trusted. Thus the world of international fashion has a lot to learn from Japanese fashion conscious people. They have presented the world with a different and exemplary STYLE STATEMENT.

Secrets of the Avid Fashion Follower

Any woman who is an avid ladies fashion follower will tell you how important it is to keep up with the latest trends and the latest developments in the world of fashion. Not just about clothing - although clothing is a major portion of what constitutes to women's fashion - but also about other elements such as the latest jewelry, the latest hairstyles, the latest accessories and must-have's, as well as what is the latest dress trend out there today. The world of fashion and clothing is ever changing and on the move, so the avid fashion follower always needs to make sure she is on her toes and kept up to date with what is happening around her.

So how does she get all the information which she needs for what the latest trends and designs in ladies fashion are? How does she know what styles are in this season and what are the latest season must-have's that every fashion diva should own in her wardrobe? By doing her homework of course. And no, homework here does not mean schoolwork, but rather homework in a sense that she uses every tool and means available to her to keep up with the trends in women's fashion.

Being an avid fashion follower is no secret, all she needs to do is make use of the fashion resources around her. For example, an avid fashion follower would always have her essential item with her - fashion magazines. They are the very first basics she can turn to as there is no other medium that keeps up with the latest trends and styles quite like a fashion magazine does. New fashion magazines are out every month, which means their source of info is always going to be the very latest and the newest, and when it comes to fashion, those two are the key ingredients you would need to keep yourself fashion forward on all things related to fashion and clothing.

The avid fashion follower would also have to learn how to trend-spot. This simply means that she would learn to observe others around her and look at what other fashion followers are wearing or carrying if she wants to know what the latest trends are not just on the catwalk, but on the street as well. After all, being a fashion diva means that she knows even the tiniest developments and what is new when it comes to women's fashion and dressing and what better way to do this than through observation.

The avid fashion follower will also make use of the greatest tool which everyone has available to them - the internet of course. The internet is going to be her endless source to all things fashion and all things related to ladies fashion, from the latest colors of the season, to what are the latest trends, the fashion gossips and what the hottest styles are, as well as shop online for practically any item she wants from any store, anywhere.

The world of fashion is something that is ever changing, and if you want to be a fashion forward glamour queen, start making use of all the resources around you and make sure that you stay ahead of the pack when it comes to all things fashion.

Fashion Careers - Job List in the Fashion Industry

A career in the fashion industry sounds glamorous and lucrative. Have you consider getting into the fashion industry, but might think that you cannot manage it? There are so many different roles and positions that you can play in the fashion world. One does not necessarily be a fashion designer but still be able to have a very success career in the fashion industry.

Being able to make a living with things you like is always enjoyable. If you are a fashion fan and love to see beautiful clothing, accessories or sketches around you, you should consider starting a career in the fashion world. Below are some key roles in the fashion world where you can take part in - from design, production, marketing, to many more.

Designing
This is one of the most high profile jobs in the fashion industry. Designers are responsible for conceptualizing their ideas on trends and realizing them on their final products. Designers can be employed by companies which own a group of designers, or work for their own brand and production line, or, even as a freelancer providing designs for difference companies.

There are several types of fashion designers:

1. Apparel designers: Obviously these are clothing designers, ranging from lingerie, sports wear, casual wear to high fashion couture, for men, women and kids.
2. Footwear designers: They design footwear for men, women and kids from a style point of view, as well as from a foot-health's perspective.
3. Accessory designers: Accessories has a broad definitely - from handbags, hat, eyewear to gloves, scarves and jewelry pieces.

Production
Production involves the sampling of garments and accessories until producing the final pieces that would deliver to shops and customers. This massive work involves a team of various professions:

1. Merchandiser: Merchandisers play a key role in the production process of a fashion product.They are responsible for buying raw materials for production, selecting fabric, textiles and trims. They have to make decisions based on pricing, quality and latest trend and innovation of raw materials.

2. Technical Designers: Technical designers are the one responsible for doing fittings during the whole sampling to production procedure. They might not be the one who designed the garment but are the experts in providing alternative to the garment to improve the fitting of garment.

3. Pattern Makers: Pattern is the basis for a garment to be sewed. Pattern makers produce and maintain patterns for garments that designers have sketched out. Pattern makers are key persons in realization of a garment.

4. Pattern Graders: The sizing of garment starts with the pattern grading. Pattern graders are experts in creating size specifications for different sizes. They are vital persons in for any fashion brands, as a consistent sizing across products can maintain customer loyalty and confidence.

5. Fitting Models: Ultimately garments and footwear are made for putting comfort and style together. Fitting is a crucial part in fashion industry and the most precise fitting is to use model as the body for fitting.

Many companies have their own dedicated models for fitting their lines, who has the exact sizing measurement the brand requires. Sometimes you would see ads looking for sampling models, from kids, men, women to plus size models.

6. Quality Control Specialists: Quality control is of top importance for any sort of products, and is no exception in fashion industry. Quality control specialists look at the quality of raw materials, like peeling, shrinking and color fading of textile and overall quality of a fashion item, for instance, the overall assembling of an accessory item.

7. Planners: Fashion planners coordinate closely with designers, merchandisers and buyers to decide the production plan for the coming seasons. They look at both production and marketing side while paying close attention to the latest fashion trend.

Marketing
Marketing is as important as making a perfect piece of fashion item. Whether it's marketing in a wholesale or retail side, people in fashion marketing bears the mission of promoting the fashion item into this fast changing world.

1. Fashion Buyer/ Retail Merchandisers: Product merchandisers are the ones who buy ready-made products to be sold in a shop like department stores. These merchandisers conduct researches and analyze market trend, the relative customer wants and stocks. They bear huge responsibility in terms of profit making, since having the eye to buy the right product for sales can make a difference in revenue.

2. Showroom Sales Specialists: Some brands own their showrooms, displaying their collection for fashion buyers (wholesalers) to make their orders. Compared with retail sales, showroom sales specialists should know their seasonal returning customer better and be able provide detailed information on the selling collections.

3. Retail Store Manager/ Boutique Owners: Retail shop manager, sales and boutique owners are the first line personnel facing retail customers like you and me.

Other Fashion-related Professions
Besides in the field of designing, producing or marketing a fashion item, one might be attracted by other positions like as a writer of fashion magazine, online blogs and fashion event management etc. Below is a list highlighting the other possible jobs related to fashion industry:

1. Fashion Writers: Writers or freelance writers can write for magazines, online blogs or sites on reviews, trends and recommendations. Fashion writers can also develop into fashion magazine editors.

2. Personal Stylists:Some department stores provide personal styling services while some private customer would employ personal stylist giving them recommendations in personal styling.

3. Fashion event Management/ Public Relations: There are nameless fashion events which requires professional public relations and event management personnel to take care of. There are PR companies specialized in holding fashion related events.

Grasp the Opportunities!
Besides the above mentioned careers in the fashion industry, there are still many other opportunities like photographer, costume designer and catalog/ fashion show models, etc. One of the most reachable way to keep yourself updated with job opportunities and fashion trend is to be active in fashion forum and subscribe to fashion magazines.

Grasp the opportunities and enjoy a fashion career!

One of the First Fashion Design Schools Online- Milan Fashion Campus

Do you dream of making it big in the fashion world someday?

I have good news for you! Your dream is now just a click away - may it be to become a fashion designer, a web fashion designer, an image consultant, a fashion magazine stylist, a TV program stylist, an event stylist, a fashion journalist, or a personal shopper - with the Milan Fashion Campus Online Fashion Design Course.

The Creator

Angelo Russica, a seasoned fashion guru who has more or less 20 years of experience in the fashion world, created the course with his aim of not only coming up with an Internet-based fashion design school that will teach the history, aesthetics, and skills required of Italy's fashion, but extending the Italian fashion sense to the world as well.

With more than 15 years of collaborative experience as a creative assistant to different companies the world over, like Versace, Gruppo Max Mara, Marzotto, Miroglio Vestebene in Italy; Induyco and El Corte Ingles in Spain; and Fujii, Chori, King Company, and World Company in Japan, Russica was able to talk to numerous young students from an array of famous fashion design schools who complain about having spent lots of money on more or less three years of study, only to find out in the end, that it is hard to find a job and almost impossible to make a name. This is also one reason why Russica developed the first online fashion design school in Italy - he wants Milan Fashion Campus to give many aspiring fashion students a chance to learn about the wonders of Italian fashion without having to spend so much.

The Course

This one of a kind fashion design course provides students with the opportunity to be professionally in touch with Italy's Fashion Design Learning Method. The intensive online fashion design course of Milan Fashion Campus also serves as a venue for the realization of dreams - may it be to become a professional figure or the famous designer of the future.

The lessons are sequenced in such a way that the students can easily follow them. The course requires active student participation since lessons are geared toward teaching learners how to do market analysis, how to locate valuable sources of information, and how to discover inspiration. Students of Milan Fashion Course will also learn the tricks of the trade, just like what professional fashion designers do: examining the streets, examining fashion stories, examining the music world, and examining the opinion of fashion leaders.

The Milan Fashion Campus Online Fashion Design Course, which can be downloaded through http://www.fashioncampus.it, has seven sections, 27 chapters, almost 200 pages, and more than 170 exercises that will serve as guidance for students from their first sketch to their first fashion show. The course also gives a chance to students to specialize on different areas, like celebrity and men fashion design, handbag design, color and rendering technique, and fashion figure template.

One may buy the course chapter per chapter, too, especially if you just want to try out the course first.

The course is in English and downloadable once you have paid the amount stated in http://www.fashioncampus.it, may it be through Paypal or money transfer. This also means that you may start with the course anytime you want.

For more information regarding fees and FAQ's, just visit http://www.fashioncampus.it.

You will not only improve your fashion taste and sensibility, but also open opportunities for a wonderful career in fashion.

Finding Careers in the Fashion Industry

The vibrant, ever-changing fashion industry is always looking for brilliant minds with an idea of what comes next in design and merchandising. Could you be that visionary voice? What does the future hold for jobs in the fashion industry?

Check out some of the top fashion industry jobs, and learn what you can do to work your way into one of these exciting careers.

Fashion & Retail Management

If you love fashion and you've always wanted to own your own business, a degree in retail management could be right up your alley. You already know what shoes to pair with that little black dress for the perfect night out, but you need to learn the details of management as it relates to fashion. Courses in fashion sales, retail history, and more can give you the experience you need to enter the field with confidence.

Management Salary Points. In 2007, retail sales managers and supervisors saw mean annual earnings of $39,210, according to the Bureau of Labor Statistics (BLS). Management positions at high-end boutiques and specialty stores might earn more, depending on location and experience.

Fashion Merchandising Careers

If you stand behind your brand, you have to be able to sell it. Fashion merchandising is an umbrella term that covers a range of careers, including: Merchandise managers " Fashion buyers " Fashion marketers " Fashion sales

Even those who specialize in creating window dressings for department stores fall under the category of fashion merchandising.

Fashion merchandise managers see a lot of use in today's fashion economy. "Today it's the merchandise manager who carries the weight," Marvin Traub, a retail consultant, told the New York Times. "He has an eye to the numbers." While a degree or certificate in fashion merchandising may not be required for all careers, it can help to have the technical knowledge you can pair with you existing passion.

Merchandising Salary Points. Wholesale and retail buyers earned $53,580 in 2007, the BLS reports. That same year, purchasing managers across all industries earned mean annual wages of $90,430. While that figure goes well beyond the fashion industry, it should give you an idea of the kind of salary a skilled manager in the field might expect.

Fashion Designers

When you first think of jobs in the fashion industry, you might picture famous fashion designers like Donatella Versace or Michael Kors. While it's true that most work can be found in fashion hubs California and New York, designers typically work all over the country, running small businesses and boutiques. Whether you're dreaming of small-town success or a big-city dream, training in fashion design can get you there.

Fashion Design Salary Points. Fashion designers saw mean annual wages of $71,170 in 2007, according to the BLS. Most designers worked in New York or California, cementing the notion that your best chances for employment are on the opposite coasts.

While competition is keen for many careers and no degree can guarantee a job, graduates of fashion schools are still finding a viable job market. Research fashion schools to get a better idea of your potential future.

All About Fashion and Fashion Week

Fashion is the general style or custom of clothing worn at any given time. The word "fashion" comes from the years when people described a woman who was well dressed as a "fashion plate".

Whether or not it had a name, fashion has always been important to women. Now it seems to be almost as important to men. Beau Brummell is probably the most well known and talked about male fashion plate in history. His colorful clothing and accessories were copied by men all over Europe.

Couturiers with famous names such as Worth, Dior, Balenciaga, Chanel had famous fashion houses in Paris. These were the haute couture designers that every other fashion designer since has aspired to become. In spite of Prêt a Porter (French for ready made or off the rack) the world still looks to Paris first when fashion is concerned. Today, although fashion designers and models come from all over the world, fashion week in Paris is still the most exciting event of the year.

Fashion changes nearly instantly. Each season welcomes in a different style, color, hem length, and designer. Today the person who follows fashion like a slave is called a fashionista. Some fashionistas look ridiculous in the new styles but they wear them anyway.

The media is very important to fashion and can rightly take credit for the spread of each new style and trend over the world map. Fashion blogs are the newest manner of communicating the newest fashion. Prior to blogs there were fashion web sites, columns in newspapers and magazines, fashion magazines. One of the most famous fashion magazines is Vogue. It was founded in 1892 and it is the longest lasting fashion magazine in the world with versions being published in England, France, Italy, Germany and other countries. Vogue's influence grew after W.W. II. Ready to wear designers and perfume companies were their largest advertisers. In the 50', 60's 70's television was featured on television shows such as Today and other morning shows.

A few years ago, Project Runway became one of the most watched reality shows on television. Each season a new designer is launched with his/her own fashion line. The show is sponsored by a well known department store, hair care company, and make-up company. The judges are a model, a fashion magazine editor, a famous designer and a weekly guest. This program watches a group of people who want to become fashion designers go through each stage of the competition. At the end, the three remaining designers compete with a line they put together in a month or two. This is presented at Mercedes Benz fashion week in Bryant Park, N.Y. The winner gets a large check to work at producing his/her own line which will be carried at the major department store.

Fashion Week is a big industry event. There is one held in each of the large fashion capitals. This week the biggest fashion houses and designers display their newest designs and styles. There is a fashion week in Paris, Milan, London, and New York. These weeks occur twice a year for autumn/winter fashions and spring/summer fashions. They are held many months in advance so that the buyers and the magazine editors can see the designs prior to ordering them for their venue. The first week of women's wear is New York followed by London, Milan and Paris. The men's wear lines are shown in between in Milan.

Fashion weeks are also held in other places for specific types of clothing such as swim wear and cruise wear in Miami. In fact, there are fashion weeks in many U.S. cities for several different types of clothing. You can probably find an alphabetical listing online if you want to go to one.

Why a Job in Fashion?

Why look at the fashion industry and the fashion world these days? Well there is a good reason to look at fashion especially if you plan on getting a job in the fashion industry. There are different types of jobs in the fashion industry. If you decide to be a designer you have to be up on the latest trends of celebrities and political people alike. You also have to know your clients and what they want and most of them want to be fashionable and be presentable when they go to a job or when they go to a photo shoot.

You can get a job as a photographer in the fashion world and be happy in it but you still need to know what is fashionable in the time you are in and what is considered not to be fashionable. You can be an editor in a fashion magazine and be able to research fashion trends through out the United States and through out the world or you can be a fashion assistant where you go and do things for the photographer, editor or designer. The fashion world has all kinds of opportunities available for jobs if that is an area you are interested in.

A retail store has to be up on the latest trends in order for them to sell clothes. If they were not then they would not be able to sell the line of clothing. Many places carry a line of clothing and fashion from a certain celebrity. For example some stores like Wall-mart and K-mart and other superstores carry brands like Martha Stewart, Miley Cyrus or Just My Size and those are just some of the brands they carry.

Mom and pop shops in New York and other cities start trends as well because they have made a name for them selves with celebrities. Macy's is another place that carries a lot of fashionable and celebrity fashions as well. In fact Macy's is known not only for their Thanksgiving Day Parade, but they are known for making a bold statement in the fashion industry when it comes to showing off their clothing and other accessories.

The fashion world is full of surprises and you can do all kinds of modelling for fashion. Modelling is definitely another job in the fashion industry and includes people like Tyra Banks who does Victoria Secret swim wear and lingerie. She has also went gone from just walking the run way to hosting her own reality show in modelling and fashion to allow girls the opportunity to see if they have what it takes to be a model in the fashion industry these days. She also has had her own day time talk show and talks with women about issues that face not only black women in the fashion industry but women in all different industries. She discusses the troubles women face in society today and talks about fashion and modelling as a way of getting out of those struggles. She also talks about it as a way of getting into acting and into theatre as well.

Fashion is considered to be here one minute and gone the next. Trends tend to come and go from one century and follow another trend from another century down the road. Every time you look back at past fashion the designers put there own twist to it and make it there own. This is why the fashion industry changes so much and why the jobs available in it would be guaranteed to brighten your day.

Fashion Marketing - Fashion Stores Meet Niche Marketing, Pareto, and the Long Tail

Fashion Marketing news: A slew of studies, data, and articles seem to point out the growing success of niche sites, especially in the fashion industry. Hype or Fact? How can big online retailers and local fashion stores benefit from internet niches?

I like reading about pragmatic ideas to boost online sales of fashion goods, from apparel to accessories. I think that too much time is wasted in theorizing about internet marketing, and not acting about it.

Yet, I am going to talk about hard-core statisical studies and hype. Why?

Because I found in this month's INC. magazine an article about niche marketing that made me connect together a lot of issues facing local apparel stores as well as big online fashion retailers.

Make money online by not carrying best-sellers

First, the article titled "A world without bestsellers" dabbles with buying patterns specific to internet consumers.

These patterns make up the Long Tail. You may or you may not know about it. For a concise explanation, go the Long Tail page on Wikipedia. Let's just say that consumers can find and buy online products that a regular store could not carry. For instance, 40% of Amazon.com's book sales reportedly consist in unknown titles that your regular Barnes and Noble cannot afford to carry in the bookstore next door.

The same seem to apply to fashion goods. For instance, in the INC. article, Zappos' Tony Hsieh says that:

"Today the company sells more than three million products across 1,000 brands. The top 20 percent of products account for half of revenue, the bottom 80 percent, the other half."

So, at Zappos, the 20 best-selling items represent only 50% of the revenues. This is a far-cry from the usual 80/20 rule that usually applies offline, when the top 20 best-sellers make up 80% of the revenues. The 80/20 rule is drawn from the works of economist Pareto.

Online sales of fashion goods make Pareto Principle redundant

This is the gist of a February 2007 study called "Goodbye Pareto Principle, Hello Long Tail: The Effect of Search Costs on the Concentration of Product Sales." It was written by researchers at the Sloan School of Management at the MIT. Better, this study is based on "several years of sales data at a private-label women's clothing company that offered the same merchandise through its catalog and its Internet store."

Fashion goods are really at the forefront of this trend. Think about all the sites of the specialty sites that have sprung up, from sites selling discontinued lines of products to sites selling only to a sub-demographic. Buyers will turn to the web for hard-to-find glasses or for styles that regular retailers would deem too original to carry.

A company called Niche Retail is specialized in doing just that. The company says that they actually avoid carrying best-sellers, as big retailers can usually manage to kill the business by discounting the most sought-after items. By the way, Niche Retail's logo reprents the Long Tail graph.

Style is a personal matter. Fashion professionals did not wait for the Long Tail theory to launch niche product lines. But the internet does offer interesting further niche opportunities:

- established brands and big online retailers can find relevant niche sites for some of their product lines

- local fashion stores are indeed niches themselves; they can use the internet to get more exposure

Big brands and retailers going after niche consumers

This very site spends time presenting you new fashion blogs, new fashion sites, and new fashion communities (see Fashion 2.0). Because fashion can get very personal, it has always been a good conversation topic. Now, the internet allows you to become a fashion critique in a snap. Big fashion actors can go after these niche sites to get their attention.

For instance, niche TV channels are popping up on the internet, due to the low barrier of entry, as reported in this article of the Wall Street Journal. The newspaper gives the example of clothing chain Express sponsoring the Ford Models web tv. I would add the example of "Ask a Gay Man", the colorful and popular fashion critique show on YouTube (see my previous note on the subject), which has gotten founder William Sledd a TV deal with Bravo.

But you not have to be big to go after these niche sites. For instance, Ujeans, a made-to-order jeans company sponsors competitions on social network site StyleMob ("a new community for street fashion inspiration").

Local fashion stores are so niche

I see here a chance for local apparel stores as well: a niche can be geographic.

A local store owner may be the best person to know what senior citizens like wearing in the Boca Raton area. Why not put up a website, where you can share your expertise? When local people use Google to find information about clothes they like, they will find your website, enjoy your expertise, and visit your shop.

Marketers are encouraging local stores to go online and advertise. A book called Marketing your retail store in the internet age does a great job of giving pragmatic and inexpensive tips to local store owners. Meanwhile, Google is pushing local ads heavily. Its AdWords system allows you to display your ad only to people searching from your zip code. Moreover, Google Maps allows you to mention your store in the popular map system, so that when people search for "women's fashion, 97108", your store shows up.

No wonder that local advertising on the internet is booming. According to eMarketer, local online advertising spending in the US will reach $2.9 billion in 2007. Local search is great for a local fashion store or a geographical niche site. One of the best resources about the subject, with how-to-s and advice, is Clickz's Local Search column.

Fashion sales are booming online and online fashion marketing may be one of the hottest topics right now.

Fashionable and Stylish

Fashion and style. What are they? Do they always go together? Do they mean one and the same thing? It's hard to say. According to specialists in the field, fashion is actually a synonym for style or glamour. It has been agreed on the fact that fashion is a way of personal expression, and according to this criteria, one can be fashionable when he/she fits in this expression mode, or unfashionable, which would be the opposite. Fashion has manifestations in all the fields of human activity, that is when can speak about fashion when we refer to topics such as architecture, clothing, music, cosmetics, entertainment, forms of speech or even politics or technology. Anything in these fields can be described as being fashionable or not. When one speaks about materialism or trend s using the term 'fashion', it can be associated with a negative meaning.

Most people today perceive fashion as a term referring mostly to clothes. The beginnings of what we call fashion today did actually refer to clothes and they go back as far as the sixteenth century. However, it was only two centuries later that the real manifestations of fashion took place and it happened in Europe, among the wealthy upper classes. Fashion, just like any other manifestation of human activity, underwent major and continual changes, to the point where it is today, that is, being related to many fields of activities.
Of course, it would be unjustified to assume that fashion is the same all over the world. First of all, fashion differs from one society to another. Then, within a certain society, there are a lot of factors which may influence fashion such as age or generation, social class, profession or occupation. Even the geography of certain regions may bring about differences in fashion among the people of the same society.

But how does fashion change? Because we all know that constant change is what fashion is actually about. Everyone will agree that what is new now will soon become old, and the process goes both ways, that I what was once into fashion but is now considered to be old and obsolete will soon turn into something new again. Capitalism has brought along with its numerous good aspects some less appealing ones, such as waste. People buy things which are not necessary to them and consequently speed up the process of change as far as fashion is concerned. Young generations have much to do with this change in fashion as well, because they are always eager and willing to try interesting things, things that they haven't experienced before, something new to be more precise.

What made fashion so popular among people was actually the television. The moment fashion hit television, in the late 1960s and early 1970s, was the moment when the general population became interested in this aspect. And fashion magazines, websites or even fashion blogs were only one step away.

Pretty much in the same way as fashion, style can refer to may things, from painting, music, literature, web design to linguistics or manners of addressing people. The very definition of style describes the term as a fashionable manner of doing things, which points out that style and fashion are very closely related. Not everything that is considered fashionable will also be regarded as stylish, which is why people should avoid turning into a fashion victim, one of those persons who will wear just about anything that's seen as fashionable, no matter if it suits them or not, from hairstyles and piercing to clothes. It is true that today's world and the society we live in have set some rules in what fashion and style are concerned, but these don't always have to be strictly followed. Being a fashion victim will only turn you into one of the rest. If you want to be ahead at all times, what you must try is to define your own style and that will make you look your best.

Top Fashion Schools - Initiate Your Profession in the Fashion Industry

Top fashion schools offer a wide diversity of courses in preparing students for employment in the fashion industry. The fashion industry is permanently changing due to the fact that individuals always like to buy modern clothes. If you assume you 've got what takes to become the next big thing, the first thing you need is an education in fashion design at one of the top fashion schools.

Fashion program official recognition is an universal indicator of quality, focusing more on the quality of academics and the rigor of training at a school. In order to turn out to be certified, all the top fashion schools gone throughout a very complicated certification procedure with the National Association of Schools of Art and Design. The accreditation committee is in charge with the evaluation process.

If you' re interested in having a profession in the fashion industry, there are lots of top fashion schools that can meet your expectations. It' s up to you if you choose the traditional on-campus or the on line approach. Whether you aim for a profession in fashion design, fashion merchandising or the manufacturing of clothes, a well documented list of top fashion schools is going to be a stepping stone towards your preferred career in this business.

The Art Institute of Pittsburgh Online Division will suit individuals not willing to move to a campus, offering degrees and diplomas while permitting you to set your own schedule. Students looking for preparation in sales strategies could find their Fashion and Retail Management program extremely appealing.

With programs both web-based and on campus and one of the top fashion schools, the Academy of Art University in San Francisco gives a fashion major with instructors who actually are working in their industries, thus being capable to link real life experiences as they apply to the courses.

Across US there are 14 art institutions that are included in the top fashion schools category, where you can learn everything about fashion design strategies, marketing and merchandising methods. There are Fashion Institutes that have campuses in fashion centers such as New York or L.A.

If you 're interested in getting as far away from home as possible, there are top fashion schools overseas which can provide you with a quality fashion instruction. One of the prominent schools is the American Intercontinental University at London that offers these degrees: an American and a British Bachelor's, a Bachelor of fine Arts in Design and as well an Associate of Arts program in Fashion Marketing.

If you would love to find out more about fashion, there is the Cornell University in NY with its Section of Fiber Science and Clothing Design. This institution of higher education offers to its college students an undergraduate major. There are a number of 4 levels available: Fiber Science (MS and doctorate programs) and also Apparel Design (Masters' and Doctorate programs).

Also, in your search for top fashion schools consider the Texas Women's University, with fashion courses taught at the Denton campus. Their Fashion and textiles division offers degree programs for a Bachelor of Arts in Fashion Design and a Bachelor of Science degree in Fashion Merchandising.

Does Everyone's Opinion Count? A Ranking of the Fashion Blogs

Over the World Wide Web, there is a continual influx of information over the internet highway, including, most recently, a trend in fashion blogging. Currently, there are hundreds of new fashion blogs being created everyday, and over millions of already created websites. With these massive amounts of people posting their opinions on style, how can you stop wasting your time reading useless fashion blogs? Is there anyway to separate the quality blogs from the irrelevant ones? This review of five top rated fashion blogs gives insight into what standards should be used in deciding which blogs are worth your time.

Fashion blogs are ranked on a 10 point scale in four areas: (1) clarity of thought, (2) timeliness, (3) relevance, and (4) degree of opinion.

Style File blog:

Total Score: 28

Style.com is a primary source and destination for where people receive their fashion news, trends, and photos of seasonal runway shows. In addition, the renown website has a chief blog site, Style File, where writers can post opinions on various aspects of fashion in a more informal setting and approach. Even though there are several writers for Style File, the writing style of this blog site is distinct and individual to Style.com's website.

1.) Clarity of thought: 6.5. It is decent. You are able to read through it, although some postings may be a bit long-winded. Also, some entries may be difficult to understand if you don't have a lot of knowledge of people in the fashion industry, such as Sophia Hesketh and Byrdie Bell.

2.) Timeliness: 8.5. This blog seems to lack consistency. It will have 5-6 entries in one day, and then skip three days entirely without any new posts and then continue on with 5-6 entries. This is probably because people are not working on the weekends. On the upside, it does post slightly more than the average blog, but for a blog that is on a website of considerable size and prominence, you would expect that it would.

3.) Relevance: 7. I don't think this blog really provides any new information that is of importance or is really interesting. It attempts to draw on styles outside of the US, which can be informative, but it doesn't focus enough fashion in the homeland. Focus of articles tends to stray away from American fashion, and stick more with foreign matters. In the past several days, there have been over five postings purely on Moscow fashion alone. This is completely unnecessary. Information can also be quite dry at times.

4.) Degree of Opinion: 6. While it does provide news, writers do not write to form their own opinions really, but just blog to create a place for viewers to post their own insights and opinions. The writers tend to say something that they feel is true, such as the "Prep School Blazer style is very trendy," yet it still opens the discussion for debate, by asking viewers whether they agree or what their thoughts are. This makes the writer's opinions seems inconsistent and weak. The blog would be better if the writers had a stronger point of view in their critique. It is unnecessary to ask the reader whether they agree with them or not, because the reader will post his or her opinions anyway.

Hint Magazine blog:

Hint Magazine is an online fashion magazine, where you can read fashion columns and story features with a wide ranging selection of topics including music, art, dance and, of course, fashion. It has a separate blog to informally discuss various areas of interests that cater to more independent styles and are usually humorous and entertaining to read.

Total Score: 30

1.) Clarity of thought: 8. The blog is clear to read and understand. It is written in a contemporary manner that appeals to a younger audience. There are not copious amounts of text in each entry compared to the Style File blog, and instead they include many photos and videos that go along with the postings. This makes it look less daunting to get through, which is important in today's fast paced world of Twittering.

2.) Timeliness: 6. In an era where bloggers are uploading new entries a dozen times per day, this blog only has, on average, 1-2 posts per day. In order to maintain a blog with readers constantly tuning in, it is imperative that there are multiple entries in a short span for readers to regularly come back to.

3.) Relevance: 7. Where Style File's subject content was entirely about the New York fashion world, this blog seems to veer slightly to the left of that direction. The information posted seems to target a more indie audience by showcasing unheard of designers, writers and artists. I found also that it seems to post a lot on Brazilian artists and designers. I am not sure if there is a correlation between the writers and Brazil for them to do so, but either way, it is a little inconsistent with balancing foreign matters. Some posts are completely irrelevant and hold no interest for me, but for those that enjoy reading about marble urinals in art exhibits and gay porn awards, this is your destination. And if you are one of those readers who enjoy this blog, good luck with letting them know your thoughts, since they have disabled the commenting feature on this blog.

4.) Degree of Opinion: 9. Writers on this blog seem to enjoy writing about what they write about. While news information can be lackluster and tedious at times, this blog tries to send out their messages in a humorous and enjoyable way. While not all of the content on this blog is PG, I did enjoy reading it, even if I wasn't too interested in what they were actually saying.

Fashion Tribes:

Fashion Tribes tends to appeal to the average fashionista who is well versed in various areas of fashion, such as new trends, beauty and accessories. The reader is usually familiar with popular styles and substantial fashion news occurring on in the fashion world. Taking elements from various aspects of fashion, such as advertisements, magazines and events, this website is pretty solid and well rounded.

Total Score: 30

1.) Clarity of thought: 9. The blog is portioned into smaller paragraphs, which makes it really reader friendly. Also, if you find yourself done with the reading, but are still interested in the topic, it allows you to read more after the jump, which gets rid of extra writing clutter, and opens up space for more easy on the eyes photos and videos. A lot of good pictures and examples, which make the posts look lively and not overwhelming to read.

2.) Timeliness: 6. For a website that is well known across the nation as one of the top rated fashion blogs, you would think that there would be much more blog entries, but instead I was disappointed to find that it only updates only 3-4 days per week. Even though there are a good amount of entries per day, the blog does not allow readers to view older posts, since there is no backlog feature. This makes it really disappointing for those that want to continue reading the rest of the blog, but are unable to.

3.) Relevance: 9. I really enjoyed the content on this blog and thought that it had a lot of good, useful information. It draws in various news about upcoming websites in fashion, as well as information about fresh spring beauty regimes and free giveaways, which everyone loves. Considering the wide-range of topics featured on this blog, I think that it is very good for an everyday shopaholic.

4.) Degree of Opinion: 6. There is hardly, if any, critique in any of the entries posted. However, when creating a blog site, you usually write about what you like, so with that in mind, you definitely know what the writers for this blog like to write about, which explains why I gave it a more generous score, since it posts things assuming that you know that these are things that they enjoy or find pleasing, without really having an opinion about them.

Go Fug Yourself:

Combine Hollywood celebrity style with a Perez Hilton sense of humor, and you have the love child of Go Fug Yourself. Known for its uncanny humor, it leaves no celebrity unharmed or unnoticed. This blog is probably one of the most hilarious fashion criticism blogs out there in a sea of fashion blogs on the internet, but then again, I am being completely biased, since these writers' humor is right up my alley. Warning, this blog is not for everyone.

Total Score: 38

1.) Clarity of thought: 9. This blog uses the adverb, "A picture speaks a thousand words" and makes it its central point. Uploading a photo of a celebrity in a ridiculous outfit pretty much speaks for itself, since that is mainly how it shows the reader the ridiculousness of the celebrity's outfit choices. Using the photo as the butt of its jokes, the writers then unapologetically bash the outfit.

2.) Timeliness: 10. Finally! A blog with a little consistency! It updates well over the course of the day. You can expect around 5 entries in a day, expect on weekends, which is understandable.

3.) Relevance: 9. Depending on your sense of humor, this site may or may not be right for you. For those who enjoy reading about bashing celebrities based on their clothing choices, then you have pretty much found gold, but for the fainthearted, you may cringe a bit more when you realize how harsh some of the critiques may be. No worries though, this website is all in good fun! Luckily, for this website, I fall in the former category, and enjoyed this blog thoroughly.

4.) Degree of Opinion: 10. Go Fug Yourself has made a career by casting its opinion on what others are wearing, so if it would be difficult for me to give it anything but a full score rating.

Fashionista

Fashionista is the product of two staff writers from Nylon and Elle Magazine, and joining to give you news in the fashion world faster than most other blogs. With a combo of gossip, rumors, sale tip-offs, internship suggestions, free giveaways, editorial photos and every other relevant news in the fashion world, Fashionista is a comprehensive and delightful read. Perhaps I am just being completely subjective, because this is one of the few blogs that I actually read everyday, alongside Perez Hilton, but Fashionista combines all the New York style straight out of the city's oven.

Total Score: 38.5

1.) Clarity of thought: 10. The blog is written in small paragraphs, making it easier for the reader to get through it, without feeling overwhelmed. If the reader is still interested in a certain blog entry, she can click on a separate link taking them to "read after the jump." It uses a combination of lively photos, videos and own photo-shopped writing, making the blog more personal and distinct to Fashionista. Also, as a helpful measure, if you don't understand some fashion terminology, they have a dictionary specifically just for that!

2.) Timeliness: 10. Fashionista updates several times a day, throughout the day, to give you the most recent and important news. This blog is an archetype to how other fashion blogs should operate.

3.) Relevance: 10. The news featured on this blog involves news occurring in the New York fashion scene. While this may not include everyone, it does deal with high fashion in a very real way, something that can be understood no matter where you are. It also includes subjects from other fashion websites to give you the most relevant information, such as its "Mid-Day Snack" section. This blog also includes various areas of fashion, such as models, beauty, and editorial spreads, so the viewer can be well read in all aspects of fashion.

4.) Degree of Opinion: 8.5. While some blog entries are created just to provide readers non-biased information, other entries are made to showcase models or photo shoots that the writers really like. Either way, you will read this blog learning what is important to the creators of Fashionista. In most news, however, the writers write the entries in a critical way, with a strong point of view.

Some Fun with Antiquated Hat Terms - Part 1 Ancient Greece through Medieval European Helmets

Some abstruse and abnormal words appear to ablaze while searching aback at the history of headgear. Accepting afresh accomplished account THE PROFESSOR AND THE MADMAN (by Simon Winchester, HarperCollins 1998) about the authoritative of the Oxford English Dictionary, I anticipation it ability be fun to analyze the definitions and ancestry of some of these age-old terms, a lot of of which accept all but abolished from avant-garde use. [I'll breakdown this activity into three or four parts, so break tuned.]

To authorize for admittance below, the chat accept to appearance up with a squiggly red band at Microsoft Word's "spell check" tool. So actuality goes:

Petasus

Forms: 15- petasus, 18- petasos.

[Tutulus

Archæol.

[L. tutulus.]

A Roman head-dress formed by plaiting the hair in a cone aloft the forehead, beat esp. by the Flamen and his wife.

1753 CHAMBERS Cycl. Supp., Tutulus, a allotment of the Romans, a address of bathrobe the hair, by acquisition it up on the forehead into the anatomy of a tower... Tutulus additionally adumbrated a woollen cap with a top top. 1816 J. DALLAWAY Statuary & Sculpt. vi. 321 The head-dress is that of the wife of a pontifex,..the tutulus or top of the hair is formed with a applique annular the acme of the head. 1891 FARRAR Darkn. & Dawn xxvi, Domitia Lepida, whose tutulus, or conical head~dress, it was the absolute assignment of a slave-maiden to adorn.

Pileus

[Wimple

[Late OE. wimpel = (M)LG., (M)Du. wimpel, OHG. wimpal veil, banderole (MHG., G. wimpel streamer, pennon), ON. vimpill (Sw., Da. vimpel from LG.), beginning OF. guimple (mod. F. guimpe), of which the alternative wimple coincided with the built-in form. Ultimate agent uncertain.

It is ambiguous whether the senses provisionally placed calm actuality and beneath the vb. accord all to the aforementioned word. In annex II there may be an onomatop ic element; for accumulation and acceptation cf. dimple, rimple, rumple, wrimple.]

I. 1. A accoutrement of linen or cottony aforetime beat by women, so bankrupt as to blanket the head, chin, abandon of the face, and neck: now retained in the dress of nuns. Aswell gen. a veil.

Used about in aboriginal glossaries as a apprehension of L. anabola, cyclas, peplum, ricinum.

a1100 Aldhelm Gloss. I. 4296 (Napier 112) Cyclade, .i. ueste, wimple. a1100 Gloss. in Wr.-Wülcker 107/37 Ricinum, winpel uel orl. Ibid. 125/8 Anabola, winpel. c1200 Trin. Coll. Hom. 163 Appoint winpel wit o er maked eleu mid saffran. c1240 Ancr. R. 420 (MS. C), Sum sei æt hit limpe to ene wummon cundeliche ability were wimpel. c1250 Meid. Maregrete xlvii, oru e mitte of ih christ, wid her wempel ho hin bond. 1297 R. GLOUC. (Rolls) 6941 Appoint bodi wi a mantel, a wimpel [v.r. whympel] aboute appoint heued. c1374 CHAUCER Troylus II. 110 Do a-woy oure wimpil & schew oure face bare. c1386 Prol. 151 Ful semyly hir wympul pynched was. 14.. Voc. in Wr.-Wülcker 601/43 Peplum, a wynpul. c1425 WYNTOUN Cron. IX. xxv. 2992 Hyre hayre in wompyll arayande. c1440 Gesta Rom. lxix. 317 The emperesse hydde appoint face with a wympill, for she wolde not ben y-knowe. 1513 DOUGLAS Æneis I. vii. 115 To ask supple, with thaim ane womple bair thai, With handis betand ther breistis by the way. c1530 Crt. Love 1102 And eke the nonnes, with vaile and wimple plight. 1560 Bible (Genev.) Isa. iii. 22 The costelie accoutrement and the vailes, and the wimpels, and the crisping pinnes. 1805 SCOTT Last Minstr. V. xvii, White was her whimple, and her veil. 1819 Ivanhoe xlii, Her abounding wimple of atramentous cypress. 1879 WALFORD Londoniana II. 247 Three nuns with veils and whimples.

transf. 1615 CROOKE Physique of Man 123 A certaine bland and glace veyle or wimple is substrated. 1861 A. AUSTIN in Temple Bar III. 472 Graves are the apartment wimples Against Life's rain.

2. A flag, streamer. [An conflicting sense.]

1656 BLOUNT Glossogr., Wimple..a Banderole or Flag.

II. 3. A bend or wrinkle; a turn, winding, or twist; a ripple or bouncing in a stream.

1513 DOUGLAS Æneis II. iv. 30 Bot thai about him lowpit in wympillis [orig. spiris] threw. 1593 NASHE Christ's T. 74b, Be not added analytical of a wimple or atom in thy vesture, again thou art of spotting and thorow-stayning thy deere bought Spyrit.

1818 HOGG Brownie of Bodsbeck xii. I. 225 A shepherd..hates the wimples, as he calls them, of a turnpike. Ibid. xiv. II. 22 He had as mony links an' wimples in his appendage as an eel. 1845 ELIZA COOK Waters i, Waters, ablaze Waters,..your wimple just lulleth the minnow to sleep! 1878 STEVENSON Will o' Mill, Parson's Marj., The river ran amid the stepping-stones with a appealing wimple.

4. A adroit about-face or twist; a wile. Sc.

1638 SIR A. JOHNSTON Diary (S.H.S.) 320 Notwithstanding al wyles, wimples, offers, motions, and uther letts. 1755 R. FORBES Ajax's Sp. 24 The gouden helmet will sae glance, An blink wi' skyrin brinns, That a' his wimples they'll acquisition out Fan i' the mark he sheens. 1818 SCOTT Hrt. Midl. xxiv, There is aye a wimple in a lawyer's clew.

Hence wimple-less a., not cutting a wimple.

a1225 Ancr. R. 420 if e muwen beon wimpel-leas, beo bi warme keppen.

Ventail

[a. OF. ventaille, -taile, ventalle (mod.F. ventail masc., = OProv. ventalha, It. ventaglia), f. aperture wind, air. Hence aswell MHG. vin-, finteile, vintale. A absolutely English alternative is AVENTAIL.

As the faculty of 'breathing-place' appears to be extraneous to the age-old use of the chat (see faculty 1) in French and English, the name may originally accept been accustomed to the section of armour from a absolute or absurd affinity to some added commodity so designated. Added senses of the OF. chat (and of the accompanying forms ventele, ventail, and vental) are fan, vane (of a windmill), sluice, shutter, blade (of a folding aperture or picture). In OF. romances the ventaille is freq. mentioned as accoutrement the affection or breast: cf. Chaucer Clerk's Tale 1148.]

1. A section of armour attention the neck, aloft which the helmet fitted; a neck-piece. Obs.

a1330 Roland & V. 863 His ventail he gan vn-lace & smot of his heued in e place. 13.. Guy Warw. (A.) 92 His helme was of so michel mi t, Was neuer man ouer-comen in fi t at hadde it on his ventayle. a1400 Sir Perc. 1722 He hitt hym evene one the nekk-bane, Thurgh ventale and pesane. c1400 Laud Troy Bk. 14375 Her helmes were on her ventayles sperde. c1450 LOVELICH Grail XIV. 33 Helmes, hawberkes, & ventaylles also, Alle to the Grownde he dyde hem go.

a1400 Sqr. lowe Degre 222 Your basenette shall be burnysshed bryght, Your ventall shalbe able-bodied dyght, With starres of gold it shall be set.

2. The lower adaptable allotment of the foreground of a helmet, as audible from the vizor; latterly, the accomplished adaptable allotment including the vizor.

c1400 Destr. Troy 7030 The battle with a dynt derit hym agayn, at the viser & the ventaile voidet hym fro. c1400 Anturs of Arth. xxxii, Again he auaylet vppe his viserne fro his ventalle. c1470 Gol. & Gaw. 867 He braidit vp his ventaill, That closit wes clene. a1533 LD. BERNERS Huon cxxiv. 448 Vnder the ventayle of his helme the terys of baptize fell downe fro his eyen. 1590 SPENSER F.Q. III. ii. 24 Through whose ablaze ventayle..His audacious face..lookt foorth. 1600 FAIRFAX Tasso VI. xxvi, He ventall vp so hie, that he descride Her apparent visage, and her beauties pride. 1802 JAMES Milit. Dict., Ventail, that allotment of a helmet which is fabricated to lift up. 1865 SIR J. K. JAMES Tasso XX. xii, Thro' the barred ventayle his ablaze appearance shone. [1869 BOUTELL Arms & Armour viii. 127 This piece, alleged the mesail, or mursail,..but added about accepted in England as the ventaile, or visor, was broken for both afterimage and breathing.] 1906 S. HEATH Effigies in Dorset 10 Some~times with a adaptable 'ventaille' or visor.

b. One of the vents or air-holes of this. Obs. 1

1470-85 MALORY Arthur X. lx. 516 The claret brast oute at the ventayls of his helme.

3. Something acting as a captain or fan. Obs.

a1529 SKELTON Col. Cloute 400 [The nuns] Accept to casting vp theyr blacke vayles, And set vp theyr fucke sayles, To bolt wynde with their ventales.

Sallet

Antiq.

[a. F. salade, ad. Sp. celada or It. celata, believed to represent L. cæl ta (sc. cassis or galea), (a helmet) bizarre with engraving. Cf. MDu. salade, sallade, salla.

The L. adj. has not been begin in this egg-shaped use. Cf. 'loricæ galeæque aeneæ, cælatæ opere Corinthio' (Cicero).]

1. In mediæval armour, a ablaze annular headpiece, either with or afterwards a vizor, and afterwards a crest, the lower allotment arched outwards behind.

c1440 Eng. Conq. Irel. iv. 11 (MS. Rawl.), Ham-Selfe wel wepenyd with haubergeons, and bryght Salletis and sheldys. 1465 MARG. PASTON in P. Lett. II. 189 Imprimis, a peyr brygandyrs, a salet, a boresper [etc.]. 1480 CAXTON Chron. Eng. cclv. (1482) 331 He toke syr vmfreys salade and his brigantyns..and aswell his gylt spores and arayd hym lyke a lord. c1537 Thersytes 55, I wolde accept a sallet to were on my hed, Whiche beneath my chyn with a thonge red Buckeled shall be. 1585 T. WASHINGTON tr. Nicholay's Voy. IV. xxviii. 146b, On their active [they] hadde sallets of leather. 1593 SHAKES. 2 Hen. VI, IV. x. 9 Many a time but for a Sallet, my braine-pan had bene broken with a amber Bill. 1594 R. ASHLEY tr. Loys le Roy 113b, The men that were heauily armed had a salade, which couered their head, and came downe as far as their shoulders. a1600 Floddan F. ii. (1664) 12 Some of a allotment can anon accomplish A sallate for to save his pate. 1786 GROSE Anc. Armour 11 The Salade, Salet, or Celate. Father Daniel defines a Salet to be a array of ablaze casque, afterwards a crest, sometimes accepting a visor, and getting sometimes afterwards one. 1824 MEYRICK Ant. Armour III. Gloss., Salett,..a ablaze arch section sometimes beat by the cavalry, but about by the infantry and archers. It..was about a animate cap abundantly akin the morian. 1844 JAMES Agincourt II. v. 109 He acquired his archers to put on the cuirasses and salades. 1888 STEVENSON Atramentous Arrow 4 Armed with brand and spear, a animate salet on his head, a covering jack aloft his body.

b. jocularly referred to as a admeasurement for wine.

1600 HEYWOOD 1st Pt. Edw. IV (1613) Cj, Accomplish a proclamation..That..Sacke be awash by the Sallet.

c. transf. Headpiece, head. nonce-use.

1652 C. B. STAPYLTON Herodian 56 When Wine was got into his bashed Sallat.

2. Some affectionate of adamant vessel. Obs.

1472-3 Rolls of Parlt. VI. 51/2 With fyere brought with theym in a Salette thider. 1507-8 Acc. Ld. Top Treas. Scot. IV. 101 Item, for ane sellat to mak gwn powdir vijs. 1582 J. HESTER Secr. Phiorav. III. cxvi. 141 Sette the aforementioned potte in a Sallette of Iron, and adhesive them abutting together.

Hence saletted a., cutting a sallet.

1455 Coventry Leet Bk. (E.E.T.S.) 282 An hundred of goode-men..with bowes & arowes, Jakked & saletted. 1461 J. PASTON in P. Lett. II. 36 The peple was jakkyd and saletted, and riottously disposed.

Armet

[a. F. armet, aswell in OF. armette, dim. of arme.]

A affectionate of helmet alien about the average of the 15th century, in abode of the basinet. It consisted of a annular adamant cap, overextension out with a ample biconcave bump over the aback of the neck, and adequate in foreground by the visor, beaver, and gorget. (Boutell.)

1507 Justes May & June 87 in Hazl. E.P.P. II. 124 They absolved not cors, armyt, nor yet vambrace. 1577 HOLINSHED Chron. III. 853/1 Foure headpieces alleged armites. 1795 SOUTHEY Joan of Arc Wks. IX. 279 Smote on his neck, his abutting Unfenced, for he in alacrity angry had casting An armet on.

Burganet

Obs. exc. Hist.

Also 6 burguenet, (burgant), 6-7 burgenet, 6-9 burganet, 9 bourginot, -goinette. [ad. OF. bourguignotte, app. f. Bourgogne Burgundy.]

a. A actual ablaze casque, or animate cap, for the use of the infantry, abnormally pikemen. b. A helmet with a visor, so adapted to the gorget or neck-piece, that the arch could be angry afterwards advertisement the neck.

[1598 BARRET Theor. Warres Gloss. 249 Burgonet, a French word, is a certaine affectionate of head-peece, either for foote or horsemen, couering the head, and allotment of the face and cheeke.]

1563-87 FOXE A. & M. (1596) 1083/1 I was page to a foot~man, carying afterwards him his pike and burganet. 1570-87 HOLINSHED Scot. Chron. (1806) II. 255 His burguenet baffled into his head. 1592 GREENE Upst. Court. Wks. (Grosart) XI. 235 With Burgants to abide the achievement of a Battleaxe. 1611 SPEED Hist. Gt. Brit. VIII. v. (1632) 407 On their active they all wore answerability Burgenets. 1796 SOUTHEY Joan VII. 296 A massy burgonet..helming his head. 1825 J. H. WIFFEN Tasso VII. xc, The bright burganet that veils His brows. 1834 J. R. PLANCHÉ Brit. Apparel 280 A morion and bourginot of the aforementioned period. 1852 D. MOIR Tomb de Bruce v, In the anteroom afraid the ambition and burgonet rusting.

fig. 1606 SHAKES. Ant. & Cl. I. v. 24 [Antony] The demy Atlas of this Earth, the Arme And Burganet of men.

Morion

Armour. Now hist.

[Cabasset

Obs. rare.

[Fr.; dim. of cabas basket, panier, etc.]

A affectionate of baby helmet.

1622 PEACHAM Compl. Gentl. III. (1634) 150 Keyes, lockes, buckles, cabassets or morians, helmets and the like. 1874 BOUTELL Arms & Arm. ix. 162.

Cointise

arch.

[a ME. (= the OF.) anatomy of QUAINTISE, 'quaint device, able ornament', appointed to a appropriate faculty by avant-garde writers on age-old costume, actual novelists, etc. (Some Dicts. accept an erroneous anatomy cointoise.)]

An affected or absurd dress, symbolical or accessory apparel; esp. the chaplet bandage beat on ladies' head-dresses, and aswell added to the jousting-helmets of knights, as a 'favour'. See QUAINTISE.

1834 J. R. PLANCHÉ Brit. Apparel 93 This closing is alleged a quintis or cointise, a name accustomed to a abnormally ancient clothes or anorak of that day. Ibid. 94 The bandage afterwards beat annular the acme of the helmet was alleged a cointise. 1843 JAMES Forest Days (1847) 181 The admirable scarfs, alleged cointises, again afresh introduced.

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